Tying It All Together for Spring
Photographed by Hanna Tveite
No zip, snap, or button can match the elegance of even the most hastily tied bow. Whether in the form of a waist-cinching belt or a decorative knot, tied fastenings are appealing in their simplicity, evoking the grace of classical drapery and the ease of a bathrobe. The spring 2016 collections of Altuzarra, Protagonist, Nehera, and Proenza Schouler each embrace these elements in a distinctive way. Prepare to redefine the phrase “fit to be tied.”
For Protagonist, this spring is an opportunity to explore fluidity: replacing buttons with tie closures and demonstrating the flattering and feminine possibilities of a cinched waist. A black satin sheath is made memorable by ribbon-like straps that cross at the back and are reprised to shape the wrap skirt. Even a trench of calfskin suede takes on an effortless quality when stripped of all extraneous details—collar, pockets, buttons—except for a velvety sash belt.
I like to create gestures. There is a lot of knotting and wrapping at Nehera, and I like when the wearer is someone that you have to decipher. Samuel Drira, creative director of Nehera
Proenza Schouler’s spring collection explores the idea of unraveling—of cutting loose and peeling away layers to find something pure. “We just wanted to show the power of craft and clothes-making,” notes Lazaro Hernandez, who with co-designer Jack McCollough used grosgrain ribbons as artful closures and alluring details. These functional embellishments made for especially interesting necklines, as in a high-contrast halter top in satin-back crepe.