A Test of Time:
What Goes Around Comes Around for The Line—Los Angeles
by Thomas Sweeney
Photographed by Hanna Tveite
With each recent heritage-brand makeover, archival reissue, and museum retrospective has come a swell of curiosity in the indelible looks that started it all. Historically minded collectors of fashion yearn to own an original piece of the chronology, eager to breathe new life into the designs that help us understand where we are today. To streamline the selection process this fall, The Line has partnered with What Goes Around Comes Around, the preeminent purveyor of luxury vintage, for a pop-up shop at The Line—Los Angeles. It will feature a range of items curated by Vanessa Traina, The Line's executive creative director and co-founder, and will run from October 30 through November 11.
What Goes Around Comes Around, established in New York in 1993, was one of the first vintage outposts to thoughtfully edit and merchandize its offerings—a counterpoint to the overwhelming, labyrinthine layouts oft-associated with brick-and-mortar fashion resellers. The approach has proved auspicious through today: the store now has locations in Beverly Hills, East Hampton, and Miami, too, with lustworthy ready-to-wear and accessories that date from the 1880s to the present. While the emphasis is on luxury (the company boasts one of the largest archives of vintage Chanel in the world), one-off tees from the 1970s and Levi's denim are given pride of place as well. As Vanessa Traina recalls, "My first purchase there, as a fashion assistant, was a pair of 501s from the SoHo store."
The pop-up shop on Melrose will house a tightly edited library of pieces from What Goes Around Comes Around's inventory. The partnership dovetails Collected by The Line, a hand-picked range of contemporary and vintage furniture and housewares which has resonated particularly among clients in Los Angeles. For Traina, providing a comprehensive medley of vintage fashion and accessories there feels like a natural extension. "I've sought out items that are complimentary to our current offering," she says. "They lend a new layer of depth to the story of our collections at The Line."
"My first purchase there, as a fashion assistant, was a pair of 501s from the SoHo store."Vanessa Traina
Traina, who frequents What Goes Around Comes Around for Chanel and Hermès accessories and Victorian lace tops and dresses, culled items that span at least four decades. Among them are an ivory Courrèges belted coat from the 60s, a Halston bell-sleeve cutout dress from the 70s, and a Dior polka-dot top from the fall/winter 1989 collection. Treasures from Junya Watanabe and Azzedine Alaïa make star turns as well. And with Traina as curator, Chanel "CC" pins and Hermès Kelly watches will naturally sit a stone's throw from an assortment of Levi's jeans.
"I looked for classicism," she reflects. "A vintage Chanel lace blouse and flats can be worn with a pair of jeans and the look never goes out of style." All in all, the selection process was a Proustian experience for Traina, who couldn't help but recall exploring her mother's closets as a child. "I was always drawn to her hidden gems that managed to maintain their modernity year after year," she says. "They taught me that fashion is truly cyclical." Indeed, what goes around ...