Peeling Back the Layers:
A Softer Side of Black and White
Photographed by Hanna Tveite
The high-contrast combination of black and white need not be harsh. These opposing absolutes have a softer side, and for spring, designers revealed it through the art of layering. Whether as pieces that evoke a state of unravelling or those developed with modularity in mind, these modern wardrobe elements relax a graphic palette through fluid shapes and striking textures. No color required.
Joseph Altuzarra looked to the Spanish branches of his family tree for spring inspiration. As seductive as ever, his runway lightly referenced Basque costumes and celebrated materials that “are close to nature” for a mix of distinctive texture and sensual off-the-shoulder styling. Those themes converge in a merino wool sweater made special by a row of golden buttons: left undone, they allow Altuzarra’s signature side slit to ascend the body, revealing what lies beneath.
A sense of fluidity softens the signature precision of Protagonist this spring, yet the silhouettes retain their thoughtful details. For a sleeveless dress that balances feminine lines with the texture of pure linen, the layered accent is a subtle one: a touch of dimension at the crewneck, which is broken by a deep slit. The graceful piece takes on a newly graphic spirit when worn atop Soyer’s black, shoulder-baring sweater.
The serenity of a monochrome palette makes it the ideal canvas for sculptural silver jewelry such as that of Sophie Buhai. In her latest collection, the Los Angeles-based designer continues to explore organic forms, inspired in part by the work of Jean Arp. Her elongated elliptical earrings nod to the artist’s Constellation reliefs of the early 1930s: abstract expressions of the metamorphosis and change inherent in nature.
For Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler, the peeling away of layers is a search for “something pure, something soulful.”
Styling Alex Harrington
Hair Jordan M at at Susan Price NYC
Makeup Stevie Huynh at D and V Management
Model Lina Berg
Explore another chapter in The Stories:
Modern Milliner: In the Studio with Albertus Swanepoel