Fresh Start:
Welcome to the World of Khaite
Photographed by Hanna Tveite
Just when you think you’ve seen it all, sartorially speaking, comes a collection with a perspective so fresh that it not only creates desire but also inspires a shift in how you approach the task of dressing. Such is the power of Khaite (pronounced “Kate”). Developed by creative director Catherine Holstein, the New York-based label’s fall 2016 debut finds confidence in contrast: of masculine and feminine, strength and softness, structure and fluidity, streamlined American sportswear and exquisite craftsmanship.
“Khaite is rooted in materials and fabrications,” says Holstein, a Parsons graduate who honed her design skills working for the likes of Gap, Vera Wang, and The Elder Statesman. “The bodies have an ease and a simplicity that is applicable to any woman’s life, so it’s really about the feeling—the emotional side of the clothes—and that’s a tactile thing.” It’s also intuitive. Holstein refined her debut range by taking home all of the prototypes. “If I didn’t gravitate toward wearing it in the morning, then it was out,” she explains.
She is an equally ruthless editor when it comes to fabrics. Focusing on a just a handful—sumptuous cashmere and merino wool, crisp cotton poplin, and satin-backed crepe, all sourced from Italian mills—allows her to dive into the details. “We do things that are a little bit different, whether it’s a fisherman’s rib for finishings or a covered button,” she explains. “It always goes back to celebrating women, celebrating femininity and the strength in that, as opposed to just enhancing it or trying to somehow improve upon it.”
Holstein landed on the name Khaite while exploring the roots of words she associated with the collection. “Ease” led her to χαίτη (khaite), which is Greek for “long, flowing hair.” The resemblance to her own name—and hair—made it an easy decision. “I wanted to reference the sensuality that runs through the collection,” she says, “in the textures and in the cuts.”
That richness extends to the palette: warm creams and buttery beiges that gain dimension from hunter green, graphic stripes, and the pairing of black and navy. “I always gravitate toward rich fall colors,” she says, attributing the preference to both a love of oil painting and a childhood spent in London interiors where rich hues compensated for persistently grey skies. “I would live my life in a Todd Haynes movie if I could.”
Khaite is rooted in materials and fabrications. The bodies have an ease and a simplicity that is applicable to any woman’s life, so it’s really about the feeling—the emotional side of the clothes—and that’s a tactile thing.Catherine Holstein
In the days before Khaite’s exclusive launch at The Line, Holstein has been busy putting the finishing touches on her first resort collection. It builds upon the firm foundation of fall with evolving silhouettes and ever more inviting textures, all brought together with a distinguishing discernment. “With design, it’s never a struggle for me to think what more I can do,” she says. “It’s a struggle thinking about how much less I can do. I think it’s very hard to limit yourself.”
Styling Vanessa Traina
Hair Tamara McNaughton at Management Artists
Makeup Daniel Martin at The Wall Group
Model Adrienne Jüliger
Explore a recent footnote in The Stories:
Beyond the Bouquet: Floral Arrangements Inspired by Ikebana
