The Line Fall/Winter Lookbook
by Alexa Hotz
Photographed by Hanna Tveite
What goes in to a fashion editorial? Pulling back from the final image reveals backdrops and lighting and digi-tech equipment. Then there’s the styling. And it’s here where there are lessons to be learned. How does a brand and its seasonal references translate on figure—and at home? Playing with volume. Wearing something in an unintended way. Adding more. Or Less. The process is all about experimentation, and here it is: the full, behind-the-scenes reveal.
Look number 3 (we’re jumping around here) starts with an Italian quilted cotton coat from Loewe—plaid inserts, cuffs, and all—with the most sensuous, albeit nervy, pair of knee-high boots from Manolo Blahnik.
We go into the shoot with a plan, but let the happy accidents unfold—a sort of organized chaos. It’s the contributions of each person on the team that shapes and forms the final editorial. Collaboration is what makes the line a circle.
Here comes model Veronika in a souped-up 1990s ensemble. Look number 14 has attitude with a walnut-colored blazer, side slit leather skirt, and, as before, Manolo tall boots. Then, for a dose of deconstruction, a Jacquemus stretch knit dress with cutout detail in the back gets paired with a cinched waist blazer. The blazer is worn backward with the collar turned up: why not?
A plaid-heavy season calls for the total embrace of print. That’s why our stylist put model Veronika Kunz in the head-to-toe plaid suit from Gabriela Hearst. No shirt necessary, but the loafers are.
A study of KHAITE’s fall collection makes up the next look. The initial plan included the waist coat, trousers, and white-tipped shoes. The bag found its way in. One of those happy accidents.
A doorway and props can make or break the shot, often adding dimension and giving the model levels to play with. In minimal clothing—only a lace bralette, pinstripe pant, and heels—she moves around the space.
Dozens of shots happen but only or two make the final cut. Will it be a detail, three-quarter, or full body in the end?
There’s the question of lighting. Studio lighting can be designed to create a natural glow as if from an open window, or full-on flash for a burst of brightness. Seen here, a 1970s style check coat from Acne Studios is washed with light.
The first edit of images gets taped up on a wall, in a folder, or on a big sheet of paper. Having that tactile approach to editing never ages out—even in the face of technology. Here, two shots of a Sies Marjan look show different things: the well-lit detail of the coat (right) shows off the fabric quality and color, while (left) the full body gives you a sense of how best to style it.
What goes into a lookbook? 13 designers and some of their best pieces of the season. The behind-the-scenes work of styling and experimentation leads us to the final edit. The lookbook is a model for the perfect fall 2018 wardrobe—from head-to-toe. One key lesson learned along the way? Start with the boots, add the jacket, and see where it can take you.
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Styling Gabrielle Marceca
Makeup Rei Tajima
Model Veronika Kunz at The Society